U-Pick 2009

 

Planting & Care

GARDNER'S CHECK LIST ____ Blueberry Plants (2 per family member)   ____ Peat Moss (4-5 plants per 4 cu. ft. bale)   ____ Mulch (1 cu. ft. per plant)   ____ Fertilizer   ____ Soil Acidifier *

VERY IMPORTANT!
Before reading any of the below information, we want to get one very critical point across. Blueberries love an ACID soil between 4.5-5.5. If your pH isn't in line with this - YOUR PLANTS WILL NOT THRIVE. Dad says that in the Chelan/Manson area, it's typical that soils regularly run about 6.5-7.0, but that's just a guess. His point is - you will LIKELY need to amend your soil for your Blueberry Plants to THRIVE. We use SULFUR here at Blueberry Hills. Read through the below information. There's a Sulfur Amendment Chart at the bottom of my page.

If you have qu-- please refer to Oregon State University's website that I constantly go to for questions and answers regarding growing the coveted blueberry. It's the best place that I've found online as an up to date resource.

This link will take you right where you need to go. :)

Oregon State University
 

Here is a chart that shows blueberry plants in various growth stages. It's kind of interesting.
 

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Planting & Maintaining Healthy Blueberry Plants
again folks…this is what’s worked for US.
 

Variety Selection
Blueberry varieties are distinguished by their climate suitability and ripening season. Be sure to choose varieties suited to your area. You may want to select varieties that ripen at different times or feature large fruit (best for fresh eating and desserts) or small fruit (best for muffins and pancakes). Bushes with brilliant fall color or different growth habits offer the gardener lots of choices to use throughout the landscape. For blueberry lovers, allow at least two plants per family member.

 Site Selection and Preparation
Select a sunny location in well drained soil free of weeds and well worked. Locate in an area where irrigation water is available as best results will be obtained by keeping the root zone moist throughout the growing season. Where the soil is poor or marginally drained, raised beds 3-4 feet wide and 8-12 inches high work very well for blueberries. Incorporate peat moss into the planting medium. For planting directly in the ground, work up a planting area approximately 2½ feet in diameter and 1 foot deep. Remove about ½ of the soil. Add an equal amount of premoistened peatmoss and mix well. Blueberries thrive in acidic soils. Your garden center representative can recommend a soil acidifier if necessary for your area. (See Sulfur Soil Amendment Chart)
 

Spacing
Blueberries can be planted as close as 2½ feet apart to form solid hedgerows or spaced up to 6 feet apart and grown as individual specimens.
 

Planting
Remove from pot and lightly roughen up the outside of the rootball. Set the top soil line of the plant about 1/2 inch higher than the existing ground and firm in around rootball. Mound soil up along sides of exposed root mass. Water in well. 

Mulching
Blueberries do best with 2-4 inches mulch over the roots to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and add organic matter. Bark mulch, acid compost, sawdust, grass clippings, etc. all work well. Add more every other year.

Pruning
It is important that blueberries get established before allowing them to bear fruit. Thereafter, they should be heavily pruned each year to avoid over-fruiting which results in small fruit or poor growth.

1.       Remove low growth around the base. If it doesn't grow up, it gets pruned out!

2.       Remove the dead and twiggy wood. Select for bright colored wood with long (at least 3 inch) laterals. Remove blotchy colored short growth. If 1/3 to ½ of the wood has not been removed by the above steps, thin out the fruiting laterals and small branches until this balance has been obtained.

Fertilizing
Blueberries like acid fertilizers such as Rhody or Azalea formulations. For newly planted stock, use 2 tablespoons of 10-20-10 (or similar) in late spring or once plants are established. (Blueberries are very sensitive to over fertilization so less is more!) For subsequent years, use 1 ounce of fertilizer for each year from planting to a total of 8 ounces per plant. Apply in early spring and again in late spring for best results. Water well after fertilizing.

Sulfur Soil Amendment Chart
This chart shows pounds of elemental SULFUR needed to lower soil pH of a silt loam soil to a depth of 6 inches*

·         SANDY SOILS, reduce Sulfur by 1/3.

·         CLAY SOILS, increase Sulfur by ½.

Let's talk soil.

Here is why it is necessary that you know the soil pH, the nitrogen, phosphorus and potash content in your soil.

pH - Soil pH is the factor which determines whether or not plants are able to consume nutrients. If the pH is too high or too low, nutrients in the soil "lock up", become unabsorbable by the plants, thus fertilizer not only goes to waste, but your plants literally starve to death.

NITROGEN - Adequate nitrogen produces luxuriant growth of stalks, stems, leaves, and grasses. Excessive nitrogen causes too rapid growth that results in softness of tissue and general plant weakness. Plants suffering from nitrogen deficiency are more susceptible to disease, infection, and injury. Plants given too much nitrogen resume active vegetable ("green") growth which retards flower and seed formation.

PHOSPHORUS - Phosphorus gives plants a rapid start, stimulates root formation, hastens maturation, aids blooming and seed formation.

POTASH (POTASSIUM) - Proper amounts of potash stimulate early root or tuber formation which is essential for all underground vegetables and tuberous flowers. Excessive potash reduces a plant's resistance to droughts and frost injury and delays plant maturity.

HOW TO GATHER A SOIL SAMPLE

Gather a soil sample from two to three inches below the surface using a clean instrument such as a soil sampler, trowel or spoon. Since test results are sensitive to external factors such as ashes, never smoke while gathering or testing your soil and avoid touching the sample with your hands.

Put samples in clean containers and label according to which part of the garden they were gathered from. Samples should be taken from various areas, especially when there is a change in the elevation of the land or where there might be a variation in the soil (a particularly sunny spot, an area beneath a tree, a part of your garden that has been under cultivation, or low-lying areas which collect water). It is best to take samples from each corner and the center of the plot in any case.

The soil should not be too wet. If it is not dry enough to walk on, allow it to air dry naturally rather than over direct heat.

Remove solids and debris such as stones and pieces of wood WITHOUT TOUCHING THE SOIL. Crumble soil as finely as possible. This is easily accomplished by putting the sample in a plastic bag and crumbling or going over it with a rolling pin. Your sample is now ready for testing.

Soil test kits, such as the Sudbury kit, include valuable charts that list the ideal pH for hundreds of flowering plants, vegetables, grasses, and trees, plus, charts illustrating how to determine exact nutritional needs after testing, instructions on how to raise and lower pH, and instructions on when and how to fertilize.  (We use the Sulfur Chart above here at BBH.) Soil test kits for the home gardener are really all you need.

Although we've had our soil tested professionally, I did purchase a simple one. It's inexpensive and I even I figured it out! :) Here's where I got it:

Soil Test Kit from "Grower's Supply"

Item# 105068

Achieve professional results in just a few simple steps with this accurate
and easy-to-use Soil Test Kit.

• Ideal for use by the home gardener, professionals, in the classroom or in the field.
• Contains liquids and equipment to conduct 40 tests.
10 tests each for pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash content.
• Includes complete instructions and recommendations to amend soil, based upon test findings.
• Packaged in attractive, durable, plastic carrying case.

Their Price: $23.95
 

Hope this helps! :)

OK. Now here's KARI'S version of:

Planting & Caring for Blueberry Bushes

Site Selection & Preparation
Select a sunny location in well-drained soil, free of weeds and well worked. (Another tried & true method of site selection is "anythin' within the range of the TV remote without having to actually flail or hunker at an odd angle from yer lawn chair." Ya' loose points fer that.) Locate in an area where irrigation water is available, as best results will be obtained by keeping the root zone moist throughout the growing season. It's been proven that even better results can be obtained by simply payin' someone else to care 'bout em. Where the soil is poor or marginally drained, raised beds 3-4 feet wide and 8-12" high work very well for blueberries. These beds can also be ideal for hosting a funeral at home. This is an economical solution, as well as the elderly in attendance will truly appreciate not having to hunker down to pay last respects. This'll likely put'cha DI-rectly on top-a Aunt Martha's Christmas list.

A fail-safe way to grow blueberries in almost any soil is to encourage your family & friends to plant 'em at their own stinkin' house. Tell-em how easy they are to grow & make sure to go on-n-on 'bout how much money they'll make. If that fails, you should incorporate peat moss into the planting medium. For planting directly in the ground, work up a planting area approximately 2-1/2 feet in diameter and one foot deep. Add peat moss to a bunch of the soil. Dig around & mix it up real good. Next, drag yer dog out'a yer fresh hole. Remember, this is YOUR hole. You fight fer' it. It also might be good to lock him up so he doesn't see YOU do sumpthin' he got the boot' fer doin' last week. This tends to confuse. Note: If diggin' is in his moral fiber and sumpthin' he simply must do to be complete as a dog, encourage & reward him to do it in yer neighbor's yard. 2 birds--1 stone.) Add an equal amount of pre-moistened peatmoss and mix well. One 4 cubic foot compressed bale will usually be sufficient for 4-5 plants. If ya don't have that, your nosey, rich neighbors likely got it from "the WalMart". Remember people.--"What's theirs is yours!" It's truly ideal to look for it late at night with a small flashlight. For raised beds, mix equal volumes peat moss with acid compost or planting mix. Again, those lousy-good-fer-nuthins next door likely got that too. Help yerselves. Blueberries thrive in acidic soils. If worse comes to worse, your local garden center representative can recommend a good soil acidifier & underarm deodorant if it's the social season.

Spacin'
Blueberries can be planted as close as 2-1/2 feet apart to form solid hedgerows or spaced up to 6 feet apart and grown as individual specimens. If planted in rows, allow 8 to 10 feet between the rows depending on equipment used for mowing or cultivating. Note: Although it requires effort, its helpful to actually TAKE your personally selected lawn chair out to use fer good measure between rows.

Plantin'
For container stock, remove from pot and lightly roughen up the outside surface of the rootball. You can also save time & achieve the exact same effect by backin' up real fast with your tailgate down & then stompin' on the brake. (Important: Avoid doin' this if yer on a date. It appears lazy.) Set the top soil line of the plant level to the existing ground and firm around rootball. Mound soil up along sides of exposed root mass.  Water in well. Clean fingernails with teeth. Your job here is done.

Mulch'n
Blueberries do best with a 2-4" mulch over the roots to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and acid organic matter. Bark mulch, acid compost, sawdust, grass clippings, nail clippings, etc. all work well. Repeat every other year, although the toenail clipping should be more frequent.

Pru-nin'
It is important that blueberries get established before allowing them to bear fruit. Same with yer good fer nuthin' kids. Thereafter, they should be heavily pruned each year to avoid over-fruiting which results in small fruit or poor growth as well as simply bein' a financial burden on the system.

Remove all blooms, as they appear the first year. (We find that the "she loves me - she loves me not" method is effective and keeps ya' focused.) In years thereafter, follow these steps after the leaves have dropped.

1. Remove low growth around the base. If it doesn’t grow UP, it gets pruned out! (Same goes fer those deadbeat kids!) 
2. Remove the dead wood, and non-vigorous twiggy wood. Select for bright-colored wood with long (at least 3 inch) laterals. 
3. Remove blotchy-colored short growth. Toss that over the fence into that lousy-good-fer-nuthins' yard.
4. If 1/3 to 1/2 of the wood has not been removed by the above steps, thin out the fruiting laterals and small branches until this balance has been obtained. 
5. Obtain & consume frosty beverage while admiring the fruit of your efforts from lawn chair of choice.

Fertilizin'
Blueberries like acid fertilizers such as Rhododendron or Azalea formulations. For newly planted stock, use 2 tablespoons of 10-20-10  in late spring or once plants are established. (Careful! Blueberries are very sensitive to over fertilization!) For subsequent years, use 1 ounce of fertilizer for each year from planting to a total of 8 ounces per plant. If that doesn't sound right, well...jest dump some on there. Apply in early spring and again in late spring for best results. Always water well after fertilizing and don't forget that frosty beverage. Remember not to fertilize after the 4^th of July – your bushes need time to go dormant before fall. 

For organic fertilizers, blood meal and cottonseed meal work well. Avoid using fresh manure. It’ll burn the plants and it simply smells, well...like fresh manure. Note: Fresh manure is always the fertilizer of choice if plants located in your neighbors' yard.

Stuff I'm Gonna Need or 
Stuff I Hope My Lousy Neighbors Got at The WalMart Checklist
Blueberry Plants (at least 2 per family member)
Peat Moss (4-5 plants per bale)
Mulch (1 cu. ft. per plant)
Lawn Chair, Toenail Clippers, TV Remote & Frosty Beverage
Fertilizer
Soil Acidifier

ANNUAL PLANNER
For them-thet'r thinkin' "Yup. I picked 'em. My work here is done." Wake up & smell the Folgers, folks. Ya ain't done yet.

Dormant : November to mid-March 

• Apply fall herbicides, November to December 
• Locate & use toenail clippers for first time all winter 
• Prune  
• Apply pre-emergent herbicides before weed growth starts, late February to mid-March  
• Remove diseased and winter-injured tissue. Toss over neighbor's fence. Remember: "It's good to recycle." 

Leaf and flower bud break : Late March to late April 

• Make first fertilizer application  
• Control weeds by cultivation and/or herbicides
• Purchase upgraded lawn chair with smooth action, (make sure to check) insulated cup holder & good spot for your remote.

Bloom period : Late April to late May 

• Introduce bees for pollination 
• Make second fertilizer application late May to early June 
• It's Spring! Let the ladies know yer lookin' & be aggressive!
• Position & use lawn chair in front yard. (Extra points for binoculars.) 
• Say "Yes" to the T-shirt with yellow pit stains, socks 'n sandals & plaid boxer shorts that hang open freely. It's important to show a sense of style.
• It's also important to present a well groomed appearance. Wax yer back. Clip stray nose, ear & out of control eyebrow hair. Don't just slick it up & wrap it around yer head like last year. Chicks hate that stuff.

Fruit development : June and July 

• Cultivate for weed control in row middles. Make sure lawn chair still fits.
• Make third fertilizer application, early to mid-July, if needed
• Irrigate as needed  
• Install bird damage control devices. Shotguns are ideal & also work well for supporting neighborly relations (again...2 birds-1 stone).
• Collect plant tissue nutritional analyses late July. Wonder "what the heck that was for?!" about 3 months later & toss over neighbor's fence. 

Harvest : July to September 

• Harvest and market fruit
• Irrigate as needed
• Flaunt your giant, fresh berries in front of those lazy good-fer-nuthins' that refused to grow your berries. Be truly obnoxious.
• Reflect on your behavior while you scratch yourself openly. Apologize for your rude behavior & offer them a fistful of your bounty.

Postharvest growth : September to mid-October 

• Cultivate to control weeds
• Irrigate as needed
• Renew subscription to "Women 'n Ammo"; it's gonna' be a long winter.